Posts filed under ‘Samoa’
5 Interesting Questions from the Field
By Tamara Crawford, KF 12, Samoa
But once I get to sit and talk to clients, and explain to them what a Kiva Fellow is and what we do, I get a number of interesting questions. As the questions tend to be similar on my visits, I figured I share the top 5 questions – and my responses – that clients have asked me each time.
Are Microfinance Borrowers “Borrowers” or are they “Entrepreneurs”?
By Tamara Crawford, KF12, Samoa
So back to the question – What is microfinance for? What is it supposed to be doing? Are borrowers just borrowers looking for access to financial services, or are they solely entrepreneurs?
Continue Reading 23 September 2010 at 09:00 Tamara 3 comments
How did the chicken cross the road?…
By Tamara Crawford, KF12, Samoa
… But it was when, as we were driving along, the sun began to rise and the sky began to lighten into a soft light blue and pink, and from the brush of trees that lined the narrow two lane, two way road from the airport into town, out peaked the vast blue ocean, its silvery blue waves a mirror to the morning sky and a testament to a new day calling life to the sleepy island…
The Alofa’aga Blowholes of Savaii
The western concept of “private property” does not exist in the communal village life of Samoa. In a traditional Samoan village, many generations of a family live together where food and material items are shared among everyone.
Samoan Donut War: A Microfinance Success Story
In the spirit of Dunkin’ Donuts vs. Crispy Cream, a fierce donut competition is raging on a small street in tropical Samoa.
Taro: The Story of A Starchy Potato
Cooked taro (from polynesiankitchen.blogspot.com)
By Agnes Chu, KF9, Samoa
They say that one of the best ways to learn about a culture is through its food. If that is true, then Samoa should be investigated through taro. Taro is king in Samoa and in Polynesia. It is to Samoans what the potato is to the Irish, what rice is to Asians, what pork is to Puerto Ricans; it is loved, revered, and consumed en mass. The Samoan word for taro (talo) is remarkably similar to the Samoan word for money (tala). You may have noticed that most of SPBD’s businesses listed on Kiva are in the agriculture sector and almost every one of those grows taro. One woman laughed when I asked her about competition, “Every one may grow taro but every one eats taro! Good thing!”
What is unique about taro as a staple is that, unlike rice or potatoes, there really is no variation on it in the Samoan diet. There is no creamed taro, no mashed taro and gravy, no taro fries (odd considering the love of fried food in Samoa). It is served usually in two ways: boiled or baked in an umu (earth oven). But most Samoans will say that their favourite food is taro—a plain, boiled taro. This causes confusion among palagi (foreigners or “from heaven”, literally translated) who try taro for the first time. To the unaccustomed tongue, it is ultra-starchy, thick, and seemingly tasteless. You stare at the light purple block in dismay and think I just ate a chunk, which will probably take forever to digest, and now I have to eat the whole brick. Ironically, this quality is also what Samoans love about taro. Jack, a staff member at SPBD, says “You can eat a taro and feel full. It is a meal.”
Kiva Love Machine Leads to Visiting Samoa
By Alex Duong, KF9, Vietnam
I’m going to let you in on a secret: Kiva is one big hunk of love. Understanding the phrase ‘Kiva love machine’ sheds light on what motivates the work of Kiva fellows everyday. Why does Rebecca Corey rise at 5:30AM to catch the bus to work? Why does Thomas Gold risk driving in deathly traffic? Read on to learn about the bond that unites fellows.
How can they afford this? Remittances, really. (Part 2 of 3 of the Remittance Series)
Village sign sponsored by Western Union
By Agnes Chu
In 2007, out of all the countries in the world, Samoa received the 7th highest amount of remittances as a percentage of GDP (22.8%). The following is a look at remittances in Samoa, part two of a three part series on remittances in developing countries. Part one, which is Rob’s excellent post on remittances in Kyrgyzstan, was posted earlier today.
Samoa could be sponsored by Western Union. At least, the Western Union logo is everywhere. Even some of the name signs for villages are produced by Western Union. Nearly every Samoan family uses Western Union—most travel for hours to the capital, Apia, weekly to receive money from family members overseas. Out of all the countries in the world, Samoa receives the 8th highest amount of remittances per capita.1 During my two months in Samoa, I have been astounded by the large role that remittances play in the Samoan economy. Why are Samoans so dependent on remittances? What does this spell for life in Samoa? And is this healthy?? The following is my attempt to answer those questions. Please be aware that it is based off my observations and conversations with the select Samoans and is not scientific in any way.
Three Earthquakes Spell Climate Change and perhaps the Wrath of God
by Agnes Chu, KF9, Samoa
Since the infamous earthquake that caused the tsunami in Samoa on Sept. 29, there have been three more earthquakes felt here. They are minor but no less nerve-wracking. As the ground jolts for a few seconds, people, including senior management, rush out of the office and some stay in the hills for the night. When a harmless earthquake struck near Vanuatu, an island 1,400 miles away, Apia was evacuated for a couple of hours; tsunami drills are certain to be a fixture in Samoa’s future. Ghost stories also abound around the island (Samoans are very superstitious). I accompanied a centre manager on field visits to areas of the coast wrecked by the tsunami, because she had heard those stories of taxi drivers picking up the ghosts of tsunami victims, was afraid and needed company. She also insisted that I keep an eye on the ocean as she barreled down the road. (Her fear, though, was well-justified by an earthquake which occurred during our trip. Fortunately, we were at a loan centre away from the ocean and the earth shook for only a couple of seconds.) Archbishop Alapati Mataeliga has declared that there is “great fear in the country.” Samoa is on edge.
Traditionally, Samoans view the ocean as peaceful and giving. They struggle to reconcile the events of Sept. 29. Many explanations are offered and discussed in circles. For some, the tsunami and the recent geological unrest in the Pacific are an affirmation of climate change and a wake-up call for awareness and action from the rest of the world. A low-lying island, Samoa is at high risk when seawaters rise and storms come. Many houses lie on the edge of the coast, which is ringed by a little seawall made of stacked rocks only three feet high in most spots. It resembles decoration more than a barrier. (Most of the seawall is privately owned and built, another reason of why it is so tiny.)
A typical house and seawall along the coast of Samoa
Reconstruction of the seawall near the wharf which was damaged. Note the demolished house in the background.
Fa’a Samoa
By Agnes Chu, KF9, Samoa
My placement in Samoa was supposed to be a quiet one. A tiny country smaller than Rhode Island, Samoa is part of the group of Polynesian islands that are usually associated with the words “dream vacation” or “exotic getaway.” Samoa is located in the “calm zone” of the Pacific and the demeanor of its inhabitants follows suit; there is actually a term—fa’a Samoa—for the laid-back attitude Samoans have towards life. Although the UN has categorized Samoa as a “least developing country,” it is well-known that Samoans are always smiling. I thought I was placed on a beach—none of this catching-malaria and getting-chased-by-men-with-machetes business that other Kiva Fellows had to worry about.
The earthquake and subsequent tsunami hit Samoa the day of my flight from San Francisco to Apia, Samoa. Although I wasn’t aware of it at the time, the tsunami had spared Apia, the capital of Samoa and headquarters of South Pacific Business Development microfinance organization, and it was the eastern coastal region and American Samoa that suffered the brunt of the damage. The airline, showing us grimy pictures of the damage, advised all tourists to turn back, but nobody did. I arrived at 5:30 a.m. (more…)
The Sundance Island: A Photo Essay of Samoa
By Athan Makansi - KF8 – SPBD, Samoa
A picture captures a thousand words. Here are a few thousand words from my past 9 weeks with Kiva Partner South Pacific Business Development in Samoa:
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Beach in Savaii, Samoa
Although poor, Samoa has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Bright, white sand, dotted with fallen coconuts and perfected by the sound of rolling waves make Samoa a good place for vacationers as well as for microfinance.
Grandma’s Question
By: Athan Makansi – KF8 – SPBD, Samoa
A few days ago my grandmother sent me an email:
Athie,
Thank you for your updates. I have really enjoyed reading them. I was wondering, from your experience in Samoa, do you think poverty is a state of mind? Also do you think the women borrowers gain a sense of worth from access to financial services?
Love,
Grandma Nellie
I love you too Grandma, and you got me thinking. So here’s my answer.
Many Samoans do not think of themselves as poor. No one is going hungry (in fact the large girth of Samoans is quite famous) nor is anyone lacking a roof above their head, nor clean(ish) water to drink and bath. As my friend Tui put it, “You can live here without money.” Food is in abundance. For example, in the backyard of my flat there is a coconut tree, a papaya tree, breadfruit tree, wild green beans, and wild cabbage. Similar edibles are plentiful in most backyards throughout Samoa – and I live within the city limits! Families outside the city can grow large plantations of crops. Also, Samoa has an incredibly reliable and generous community system. Everyone looks out for everyone else. If you don’t have a home, a relative or neighbor will take you in. If you have no food, a friend will gladly feed you.
But the UNDP ranks Samoa as one of the 50 poorest countries of the world. As I walk around Samoa I see many manifestations of poverty. Samoans don’t have all the TVs, BMWs, laptops, or other luxuries, that characterize the western world. Many people dressed in faded second hand clothes from developed countries. New clothes are quite expensive for Samoans. Homes are in poor shape –some are infested with termites, some have makeshift walls of tarps and plywood. Samoa has poor health. The Samoan diet consists of very poor quality food. Samoa imports the leftover junk food from New Zealand and Australia. Almost all products are processed and canned. Canned meat, especially corned beef is considered a delicacy. Also, the preferred way of cooking is frying. For such a small population, Samoa must go through a record amount of cooking oil. Samoans suffer from diabetes, obesity and heart problems. Moreover, their quality of healthcare is quite poor. Often, Samoans wait for hours and hours in line for their appointment. Doctors’ pay, comparative to Western societies, is very little. Samoa definitely lacks the benefits of a developed country.
Taking Care of Business
By: Athan Makansi – KF8 – SPBD, Samoa
Kiva is about stories. From borrower profiles and journal updates, we learn about individual borrowers all over the world and their struggle to work themselves out of poverty. But, some of the people most integral to the daily operations of Kiva are underrepresented on Kiva.org. Rarely do we hear stories about the credit officers all over the world who actually disburse the Kiva loans. Here are some profiles of the credit officers at South Pacific Business Development (SPBD) in Samoa.
At SPBD, the credit officers are called Center Managers (CMs). The center manager’s job is to collect the weekly repayments from each SPBD borrower. Monday through Thursday a center manager travels around the island to different borrower centers to collect repayments. Each center consists of between 5 and 35 borrowers, usually all ladies from the same village. On most Fridays, the Center Manager stays in the office to disburse new loans, prepare paper work for the next week, and count a lot of money. Last week I accompanied one center manager, Ela, on her daily rounds. Here is a video of our adventure.
At SPBD, there are twelve center managers broken into three teams of four. Three center managers – Ela, Mayvian and Jack – took the time to let me interview them.
Where are the S’mores?
Athan Makansi – KF8 – Apia, Samoa
Jump on the Samoan time machine and watch as a few neighbors help prepare a delicious meal of taro, breadfruit, coconut cream, potatoes, chicken and tuna in a giant fire pit as Samoans have for many, many years. But no, Samoans don’t make s’mores.
Talofa (Hello), from Samoa. I arrived last Friday in the glorious sunshine of Samoa, eager to start my fellowship with SPBD, Kiva’s partner in Apia, the capital (and only) city. Very quickly I became aware of a remarkable generosity between Samoans. My landlord offered to cook for me, a taxi driver gave me a free ride, and all types of Samoans generously flashed a toothy smile my way. In every instance of generosity I can’t help but let a smile sneak out in return.
Gali Sends Greetings from Samoa
For those of you who know me as Eviatar (or do not know me at all), I am now Galumalemana, or Gali for short. This is my Samoan name, bestowed upon me by some of the loan officers during my “initiation” on my first Friday night here. The event included some rugby rituals, a healthy amount of Vailima (the delicious local beer), karaoke, many laughs, and a fuzzy feeling of being welcomed into my new family.
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Samoa is beautiful, but poor. The fishermen in the background are standing in the ocean and fishing with a net.
I arrived in Samoa two weeks ago, and have had an interesting time since. I will try to not be too redundant with previous entries written by fellows who served in Samoa, so I won’t talk about the myriad churches, the beauty of the country, the heat and humidity, the crazy drivers, the fascinating state of poverty, or the kindness of the people. (If you haven’t already, I suggest that you read their very interesting entries by searching for “Samoa” at the top of this page.) Except, the poverty and the extent of the friendliness of the people here is so fascinating that I must write about it, even if it is in repetition. Hopefully you will find something unique in my impressions and interpretation.
Poverty here is intriguing because it presents itself in such an unexpected way. I haven’t been here long enough to make any judgments and pretend to be an expert (that’s next week), so here are some initial observations regarding poverty in Samoa. Although Samoa ranks 36th on the UN’s Least Developed Countries list, that is far from obvious. People here are extremely nice, and it’s hard to imagine any hardships going on in such a paradise of smiles and helpful strangers. Also, there is a very strong extended family and community support net, which keeps the poverty hidden underneath the surface. Samoans would never let anyone sleep on the street or go hungry, even a stranger. They are very generous- and not of the sort that expect something in return, but of the sort that gives because they can. However, this social support places a burden on everyone’s resources. Without going into welfare economics, I should mention that the impact of this system on incentives for people to work hard has crossed my mind a few times.
The second stand out topic is the extent of the happiness and friendliness of people here. Although there is no way for me to tell for sure how happy people truly are in just two weeks, I take their constant smiling, laughing, and kindness as positive indicators. It’s so pronounced that you have to wonder what makes a whole nation so nice. Is it the History? Geography? Chance? Genetics? Climate? Let me illustrate this kindness with an experience that despite its subtlety, startled me quite a bit. A few days after arrival, I went to the immigration office to finalize my visa. There were two booths with clerks in each. One clerk was busy assisting someone, and the other was doing some paperwork. People were sitting in the waiting area, waiting, I assumed, for one of the clerks to become available and invite the next-in-line. I sat down, and within a few minutes, someone entered the office, and headed straight for the clerk doing the paperwork. After exchanging their greetings, the newcomer caught my gaze, understood the situation, and immediately invited me to talk to the clerk before him. Apparently the people in the room were waiting for something else, and I was supposed to have interrupted the clerk on arrival. Most locals in every other place I have visited would have taken advantage of me, never mind been sensitive enough to notice and consider my position. Importantly, I feel like this was not a fluke. Although most of my experiences with the kindness of people here are subtle and individually unimpressive, I am confident that anyone here would go out of their way to help me, even if doing so would send them in the complete opposite direction.
I came to Samoa not to be the recipient of kindness, but to help SPBD with Kiva-related processes. Over the last two weeks, I have been learning how the microfinance institution operates, going over their procedures and the new Kiva interface with the office staff, planning ways to improve their processes, and arranging excursions into the field to write journals. Still, I have not overlooked the fact that I have had the luck to be placed on this beautiful island. Accordingly, I have been exploring quite a bit, and yes, it is extremely beautiful. Upolu is one of the two main islands comprising Samoa, and where I have been staying. It is covered by thick greenery, exotically painted flowers, and white beaches riddled with palm trees. To my peers in Sudan and Azerbaijan, please take comfort in knowing that most of the beaches are occupied by coral. As my scraped hands and knees can attest, this makes for unpleasant swimming.
I look forward to discovering more about Samoa, especially the effects of microfinance and Kiva on the people here. This should happen when I meet borrowers in the field starting in the next few days. Until then, be sure to borrow a page from the Samoan way of life, take it easy, and know that no hardship is worth being unhappy for. I’m constantly reminded of the first sentence I read about Samoa: “If relaxing was an Olympic sport, Samoa would win gold.”
Altar of Globalization
There are parallel and sometimes conflicting legal systems in Samoa: the state system and the local matai (chief) system. The state system being a relatively recent incarnation and the matai system being a traditional hierarchical structure used for many centuries. Both have laws (formal and informal), courts, judges and punishments.
Outside the capital city of Apia, the matai system reigns supreme. For many centuries it has maintained order in the rural villages. Samoans attribute their long history without internal conflict and widespread crime to the matai system and the common culture of the people. They note this difference in other Pacific nations which have experienced civil unrest between ethnic groups. I would say that a lack of civil unrest is more a product of homogeneity. The low crime rate, however, is directly related to the matai system.
There is palpable respect for and obedience to the village elders and matais. This is a result of Fa’a Samoa (“Samoan way”), a traditional system of expected behaviors and responsibilities, which is interdependent with the matai system. Hulking adult Samoan males turn into cowering and apologetic children in the face of an angry mother. Of course, crime does exist in the villages. Mostly, petty theft and domestic violence and abuse. Both difficult to thwart with any kind of legal system.
The matai system trumps the state system in the villages. A vanload of police entering a village to enforce a law contradictory to the local matai system are potentially welcomed by a hail of rocks and turned away. There is no recourse for the state. No state law is effective without consent from the village matais.
In the capital city, though, the matai system is somewhat degraded. And resistance to the police remains. Take a recent fight between rival high schools. It escalated to the point where a bystander was hit by a Molotov cocktail and the lone city cinema was destroyed. The students continued to fight with complete indifference to the police. (In response, the state has banned ALL sports matches for ALL schools indefinitely. An overreaction and counterproductive in my opinion). To be clear, this incident is an aberration, but the mentality that drove it persists.
So it’s possible that a nation with the fewest formal laws and strongest informal traditions produces the greatest order. At least insofar as the villages are concerned. But in the most ‘developed’ portion of the country where traditions have diminished, crime is greater and a marginalized police force is expected to stop it.
The Deputy Prime Minister frequently states: Samoa is not prepared to sacrifice its culture at the altar of globalization.
Thus, it is disconcerting that in the capital city, where development has occurred the most while at the cost of some cultural traditions, civil order is the most difficult to maintain.
Top Ten List
It seems to be a requisite duty of a Fellow to provide the “You know you’re in…when” so here’s my take:
10. Rugby is life. American Football is called ‘American Rugby’. Though a Samoan-American is 40 times more likely to make the NFL than a non-Samoan American (thanks, ESPN), the more than 30 ethnic Samoan football players in the NFL, like Troy Polamalu or Junior Seau, do not have celebrity status. That fame is reserved for the Rugby players of Manu Samoa (National Team) and Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson born of a Samoan mother.
9. “Mmm” means Yes. If you ask, was that a “yes”? You’ll receive another “Mmm”.
8. At times, no communication can be better than bad communication. I mistakenly relayed that I was married with kids when I first arrived through a conversation in broken Enlgish. Neither is true.
7. If you ride the buses, be prepared to have someone on your lap and make stops every 200ft due to no designated bus stops and Samoans’ aversion to walking.
6. As a foreigner, the only persistent dangers are the wild dogs and sunburns. Both potentially nasty. As a local remarked to me during my first few days here: “you are not made for this sun.”
5. If you’re raised in a village, you really have more like 20 mothers there to chastise you and provide swift corporal punishment in the form of a stiff rear-end smack at any time.
4. Only in Samoa (or perhaps Scotland) are four NFL linemen-sized men singing Madonna’s “Borderline”, in lavalavas (skirts), still an intimidating sight.
3. Walking along the side of the road is like playing a game of chicken with the passing vehicles. I am convinced they want to get as close to you as possible. When a driver provides ample room to walk (and live), I know it’s an expat driving by.
2. Your mobile phone calls are very short. No introductions, no good-byes. The result of per-second charging and exorbitant rates.
1. Your deceased relatives never really leave you. Many are buried on your porch or front lawn.
Two Near Identical Conversations
In the right place at the right time, I had the great fortune to meet the Deputy Prime Minister of Samoa as a representative for Kiva. An SPBD entrepreneur was selected through Kiva by Advanta, an American small business banking company, to travel to the United States and speak at a few engagements about her Elei printing business. A big deal here in Samoa evidenced by a send off from the DPM. It even made the national newspaper: http://www.samoaobserver.ws/local/LNPages/0408/1608ln007.htm
One would think the content of a conversation with the women of a village centre and one with the Deputy Prime Minister would be noticeably different. They are not.
When I arrive at a village centre, it begins with the standard introductions. Name, country of origin, organization. My information does not generally pique significant interest. Then it becomes their turn for a question: are you single? Do you have a Samoan girlfriend? At which point, I am told through some chuckles that all the women are single (despite the droves of children all around us).
No different in the DPM office. Except the children.
Immediately, they begin to call me “Benicio”, a lead actor in a widely-watched Filipino soap opera. Despite having no resemblance to him, each village, without fail, calls me by his name. Slightly troubling considering he is the reviled antagonist. Saying that this soap opera is all the rage is a great understatement. The country comes to a halt during the 3-hour, 3 times a week showing. With pirated copies circulating, there is no longer the dreaded break in between episodes.
The DPM, similarly, requested that SPBD’s General Manager, who is Filipino, purchase new Filipino DVDs during his next trip home. Though he unconvincingly claimed not to be a fan.
The DPM did raise some weightier subjects: the US Presidential Election and his own political controversy.
He was very well-versed on the Democratic Primary, and he even knew about each candidate’s most recent gaffe. I can not say who he endorses (he refused), but no one here seems to know that there is a Republican nominee.
As to the great Samoan political controversy rocking this tiny nation: the Prime Minister is imposing a switch from left-hand drive to right-hand drive vehicles. Coupled with a switch of the driving side on the roads. It has been met with near unanimous opposition: 2 protest marches and “Vote NO on RHD” t-shirts, signs and bumper stickers everywhere. The motivations for the change are not exactly clear. Here’s a shot in the dark: it has something to do with money. I am just glad that I’ll be long gone when that chaotic day comes in 2009.
Courtship, Filipino soap operas and RHD. There’s no escape from it here.
The True Mission
Many Westerners come to Samoa and quickly make one of two judgments: all Samoans are poor OR no Samoans are poor.
That dichotomy can be perplexing, so I decided to engage a Centre Manager (loan officer) in a conversation about it. One who stood firmly with the belief that all Samoans are poor. None of this should be treated as a final judgment. Far too early for that.
To paraphrase:
Everyone in Samoa is poor, he stated.
If I ask the people if they’re poor, what would they say? They would say that they’re not poor.
So why do you say that they are? What do you mean by that? No one sleeps on the streets. Everyone has a home. The community spirit in Samoa would not allow anyone to be sleeping on the streets. No one is starving. Food is abundant. Using these gauges, a passing observer might instinctively decide that there is no poverty at all.
Many international relief organizations define poverty as living on less than $1 a day. By that standard, Samoa is considered one of the most impoverished nations in the developing world. But if you travel to parts of India, Africa, China, you will see emaciated homeless, tangible poverty. But in Samoa, though many live on no money, they grow their own food, make their own clothes. Without even property taxes, they can live self-reliantly. Plus, smiles are ubiquitous. Everyone seems content with their standard of living notwithstanding the tribulations of any society (jealousy, greed, infidelity, etc)
I had to dig deeper into how exactly this CM defined poverty, so I asked from a different angle. How will you know when Samoa is developed? What are the indicators? Many Samoans do not have electricity or potable running water. When they have those things, we will be developed.
But is that going to make them happier? Maybe, maybe not. I surmise that the overall happiness is greater here than in most, if not all, developed countries. Is electricity and running water going to make Samoa a happier, better country? Maybe, maybe not.
(I will resist entering in the dispute over poverty and development and happiness. The enduring “what’s really best for this country?” question.)
So then no one is really poor?
When I walk into a village for the first time that is not a part of SPBD, the women are still smiling. It’s our nature. But once they enter the program, I can see a different smile on the women’s faces. Starting a business, earning money, making payments gives them dignity. Everyone knows about money. Now they feel they’re a part of that system. I come from a poor background. Like most Samoans, I had a sort of poverty of the mind. Belonging to SPBD, starting a business, gives them a purpose, a drive, a goal. Pride. As an outsider, you cannot see this difference in their smiles. I don’t work here for the money. I can make more money at the National Bank. I work here for them. For a better Samoa.
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A cynic might say that this is a self-fulfilling prophecy. I want to feel good about what I do; therefore I will only see the good in what I do. But this CM, who I can attest to his blunt honesty, was only speaking with absolute sincerity.
SPBD’s stated mission is “to improve the quality of life of poor families of Samoa by providing training, unsecured credit, ongoing guidance and motivation to help the clients start, grow and sustain micro-businesses.” In reality, I would say that is the ancillary benefit. For this one CM, his mission is to fill a void of knowledge and purpose. Provide a sense of duty and accomplishment. Running water and electricity are the tangible outcomes of poverty alleviation. But in a country mostly content, the mission is increased dignity. Evidenced by a different smile that most outsiders will never be able discern.
‘Agressive Friendliness’
I heard the claims before I arrived: “Samoans are exceptionally friendly.” It sounded simple enough; they must live with a tattooed smile and provide a helping hand to those in need. But, as I discovered, it is much more. Samoans have what I’ll call an aggressive friendliness. As I walk around town, the never-timid local Samoan will unfailingly pepper me with questions within the first couple minutes. All questions that I undoubtedly would be unwilling to answer a stranger in the US. And was quite reluctant to answer my first couple days here.
Greetings are always initiated by, “where are you going?” (“Over there”)
Then, “what are you doing here?” (“Working”)
Followed by, “where do you live?” (“Back there”)
And at some point, “what religion are you?” (“Is there a correct answer to this question?”)
Always concluded by the unanticipated, “do you want to come to my village?” (“Don’t you think we are rushing into things a bit fast?”)
In the States, a reflexive retort of “none of your business” (or often a less polite version) would be the common response.
These people could not possibly be that interested in my answers. They must be building information on me. Determining where I live and work. Luring me back with a false sense of security to their homes. I couldn’t suppress my skepticism and leeriness.
But after a few days, I realized my suspicions of their generosity were unfounded. Everyone asked a nearly identical list of questions.
The motives for their questions were much more innocuous.
“Where are you going?” is simply a greeting like “how’s it going?” Often, they don’t even care about your answer. If so, they are simply curious about where this palinga (white person – strangely translated as “from the sky”) was headed.
Where someone lives indicates with what village they are associated. In a country without street names and addresses, a significant way of identification.
The importance of religion needs no further explanation in this country that has more churches than banks, bookstores and restaurants combined.
On the topic of inviting me home, their hospitality is truly that powerful that they wanted to take me in. (Ex. Though not typical behavior, as I believe the man to be under the influence of an intoxicating substance, a local hugged me and gushed with joy of my visit to his country.)
In other hospitable nations, entering someone’s house affords you guest status. In Samoa, entering the country affords you guest status.
How a Skill Becomes a Loan Becomes a Business
I’ve decided to provide a pictorial representation of the loan steps for SPBD. I’ll use thumbnails because I’d like to avoid crashing the Ugandan or Mozambican or any other countries’ internet cafes. This will alow you to see some of the guys (and gals) behind the guys (and gals). I’m confident that other MFIs have similar processes. It was incredible to witness it first-hand. Hopefully this will provide a glimpse.
After a village expresses interest in starting a center (microfinance group), a representative of SPBD travels to the villages and provides them with a couple finely crafted program videos and a PowerPoint presentation to a very captive audience. Many of the villagers discover SPBD through local TV advertisements.
A Centre Manager (CM – loan officer) returns for four consecutive weeks to provide training on SPBD’s core concepts: business, weekly meetings, payments, savings and group guarantee. Group guarantee being the bedrock of this MFI. Each woman is dependent on the others to faithfully follow the terms of their agreement and must shoulder the burden if others are unable. This is where the Samoan culture of community and pride are especially indispensable.
On disbursement day, the women (as many as 100) begin to arrive at 8:00am at the SPBD office in Savaii. Some stay as long as 8 hours to receive their first loan. I’d like to say the atmosphere is teeming with excitement. I think, really, after 4 weeks of training, they just want their money. Many have had their skill (growing taro, fishing, making dresses, mats, etc) for many years. Time spent previously lounging in the fales (open air houses) is now spent more productively.
Each woman undergoes a final interview to guarantee her fitness in repaying the loan, understanding of the agreement and knowledge of her business. A wide grin and “fa’fetai” (thank you) are all that is needed to show their appreciation.
Now begins the standard 52-week loan term. Each week, a CM travels to each center to receive payments. Group guarantee is effectively enforced and followed.
Visits to the actual businesses is not often an option for a CM considering their very busy days. (But they are able to patronize them as customers during the nights and weekends.) During these center meetings while the detailed records are taken, I’ve had the opportunity to leave and visit the local food stalls, plantations and others. A retail location for many of the women is the Salelologa market where surprisingly no heckling and bargaining rarely takes place.
So the business and loan cycle continue for the next 51 weeks. Profits used to pay back the loan, educate their children, improve their houses, expand their businesses and save for the future. Prior to microfinance, opportunities never before realized.
Talofa from Samoa
Greetings, friends and strangers.
I’ll be spending the next 3 months in Samoa providing you with my observations of the country, people and most importantly, South Pacific Business Development (SPBD), the MFI at which I’ll be working and to whom you may have lent.
I will not offer my impressions of Samoa until several weeks have passed and I can start to make some sense of everything. Otherwise, it would only be a collection of incoherent ramblings about a country of which I do not even speak its native language.
Many have asked where Samoa is located. Or more precisely, where in Africa it is. For the map-deprived Miss America watchers, Samoa is located midway between Hawaii and New Zealand. For all the other answers to general questions, go here: www.visitsamoa.ws
SPBD was started in 1999 by Greg Casagrande, an American and former Ford Motor Company executive. It’s one of Kiva’s original Field Partners. It is a Grameen Bank style micro finance organization serving those living in poverty in the Pacific Islands. It uses the group lending method and focuses on empowering women (Very effectively, I can already confidently add). Its first target market is the island nation of Samoa. The 48% of the population that the UNDP has declared as being food deficient.
For a 2006 NBC piece on SPBD, go to:
http://msnbc.msn.com/id/11328051/
One thing is for certain. Samoa is a prime setting for microfinance: minimal government interference or regulation, politically stable, low crime, liberated women, collective environment, wealth of microbusiness opportunities and, most notably, the need for it.
For anyone mulling over the impact of Kiva on the MFIs, look no further than SPBD. Thanks to the working capital that Kiva provides, SPBD was able to expand from the main island of Upolu to Savaii in the last few months. (Which, by corollary, offered me the opportunity to visit more of Samoa). And more islands are on the horizon, literally.
I will try to keep these posts as word-less and picture-full as possible. Seeing the benefits of your work is always much more satisfying than reading about it. Alas, my fellowship.
What I learned
It was 3 months ago that I stepped off the plane and into the tropical Samoan rain. It seems those same storm clouds have gathered on my last day on the island to see me off. Over the course of my stay, I’d like to think that I learned a few of things.
I’ve learned of the incredible dedication and hard-work it takes for the staff of a small MFI like SPBD to run its operations.
I’ve learned that despite their demanding daily schedules, the SPBD staff rarely shows signs of stress or frustration. I think I’ll have a better chance of mastering the Samoan language in my remaining hours here than encountering a similar work environment back in North America.
I’ve learned that I have yet to scratch the surface of understanding the complex Pacific way of life. The faa Samoa is a riddle, wrapped in a conundrum, wrapped in taro leaves.
I’ve learned how to snorkel, how to change a tire, and how to subsist on an alternating diet of corned beef and Yellowfin tuna. I’m not yet sure how useful that last bit will prove to be.
I’ve learned that, despite not having any international volunteering experience prior to this, I was able to survive for three months in a country many of my friends have never heard of before.
I’ve learned to appreciate how lucky I am to not have to worry about running water or working electricity. One of the great perks of travel is that it often provides a measure of perspective on your own life.
And finally, I’ve learned that that the loans made through Kiva are helping the proud women of Samoa to take advantage of their talents and resourcefulness. It’s been a real honour to have helped out in any way.
Tofa Soifua
The SPBD Awards Ceremony and Parade
Every year, SPBD holds an event to celebrate its clients. An award ceremony is usually held to recognize exceptional members among the ladies who participate in the loan program. This year’s event was held this past Saturday, and it proved to be the grandest celebration to date. For the first time ever, a parade was organized to march down the main road of Apia, featuring over one thousand of SPBD’s clients. The boisterous women arrived in the early morning and, decked out in matching uniforms according to their borrowing centres, sang and danced their way to the starting line of the parade.
Since it was being held early Saturday morning, traffic was light and only a brief police cordoning of the main road was necessary. I had the honor (and surreal experience) of marching at the front of the parade, right behind the main banner, along with the rest of the SPBD staff as well as the president of SPBD, Greg Casagrande. Because of the early hour, the spectator crowd was rather light, but the ladies sang and danced their hearts out nevertheless.
Once the tail of the parade arrived at the ceremony hall, it took a while for everyone to be seated. The venue was not designed to hold this many people, and the spectrum of colors from the ladies uniforms formed a sort of tightly packed rainbow in the cramped space. The packed seats, festive mood and wandering taro chips vendors created an atmosphere not entirely unlike that of a ballgame. The highlight of the ceremony was the keynote speech given by the Prime Minister of Samoa. He praised the efforts of SPBD and joked with Greg that even the prime minister himself has trouble organizing a gathering of the ladies of his own village, and wondered what it was about Greg that attracted a thousand women to gather in a single hall.
The ceremony proceeded with the presentation for the awards for the Centre Chief of the Year, Centre Secretary of the Year, Businesswomen of the Year, and finally the Centre of the Year. The presentations were followed by a song performance by the centre from Levi Saleimoa, the winner of the Centre of the Year award, and a dance routine by the centre from Nu’usuatia village. It’s a shame that I am unable to post the video of the performances due to bandwidth restrictions- the songs were especially fun and lighthearted, involving props and audience interaction. At the conclusion of the performances, a quick closing prayer was held and everyone rushed off to do their shopping for the upcoming week.
Beneath Samoa’s tranquil surface
After tossing out some statistics on the poverty situation in Samoa in my first entry, I think I’m ready for a more personal take on the impact of impact of micro-credit and the overall economic situation in Samoa.
South Pacific Business Development is one of Kiva’s earliest partner microfinance institutions. With an entire staff of just 16 employees (including management), the institution covers over 2,000 active clients, whose loans total over $700,000. SPBD follows the original Grameen Bank model by administering its loans via borrowing groups. With very few exceptions, all of its clients are women.
My first field visit was to accompany Tafauga, one SPBD’s 8 loan officers, to a client group meeting at the Leauvaa village, where I was to take Kiva profile photos for members of a newly-formed borrowing group. As we maneuvered along ever-narrowing roads towards the village center, I glanced outside the passenger window and was strangely transported back to my early childhood. Hazy memories of my brief times spent in the rural Chinese countryside were stirred up as I watched pigs, chickens, and dogs roam free alongside the road. In contrast, the lush vegetation and towering palm trees provided an exotic tropical twist that I’ve never encountered before in my life.
We soon arrived at the meeting, which took place in a large open fale (fah-leh). Fales are the traditional housing units of Samoa, and are common even today among locals and tourists alike. Their lack of walls, external or internal, is designed to maximize the flow of cool breezes in the hot climate, but also neatly reflects the importance of family and community in Samoan culture. Makeshift blinds are used only in times of heavy storms, and wandering dogs and livestock regularly require shooing off during the night. I’m quite glad to be living in a western-style house myself, as it will take nothing short of a demolition crew to take my precious walls from me!
The meeting itself was a total blast. The ladies, most of whom were middle-aged, were extremely welcoming and had great senses of humor. The eldest among them were also the most outgoing, and they were completely unabashed in immediately asking me for my marital status. After confirming that I was single, they would jokingly flirt and titter amongst themselves in Samoan, making many off-color jokes (as Tafauga later told me). Meanwhile, I was running around snapping pictures, a goofy grin on my face, feeling like I was at a fashion shoot. Most of the ladies really seemed to enjoy having their photos taken, and I even had a few request for multiple shots, each one for a different pose.
Since my eye-opening first visit, I have been to several other client group meetings. These visits have been to accompany various loan officers on their actual payment-collection rounds, and I soon realized that my first foray did nothing to prepare me for these utterly grueling outings. Leaving the office usually just after 9am, the loan officers rarely complete their rounds before 4pm. Many meetings are conducted in fales with no chairs, where everyone is expected to sit cross-legged (it is considered rude to point your feet towards the center of the meeting). After a few accumulated hours in this position, I was having difficulty standing back up! It is amazing to watch only 8 officers cover over 2,000 clients around the island on a weekly basis, and I have gained a great amount of respect for their tremendous hard work.
After a couple of weeks of field visits, I am beginning to better grasp the island’s complex socioeconomic condition. Most notably, I was never struck by a sense of overwhelming poverty and destitution in the same way that many of my fellow Kiva Fellows in other countries have described in their blogs. There were no dilapidated slums, no starving infants, and street begging is extremely rare. The strong social support from tightly-knit communities, combined with the extremely fertile island soil and an abundance of livestock, has meant that the vast majority of the population does not experience the severest of hardships, such as starvation or homelessness. The literacy rate is at an astronomical 99.7% (due largely to the support of education by the church) and life expectancy is at 71 years.
Despite the lack of desperation-level poverty, the continuing prevalence of subsidence living reveals several deep underlying issues. The strong sense of community that I described earlier presents a truly double-edged sword. The same support system that takes care of the lazy, disabled, and powerless members of society also means that domestic breadwinners will often have to support large extended families. A system of communal ownership, combined with a lack of rewards for individual effort, can effectively stifle individual initiative and broader economic development. Fa’alavelave, lavish gift-exchange ceremonies that accompany weddings, funerals, and church openings, are great fun to attend, but can drain months’ worth of funds in an instance. At church, families compete against each other to see who can donate the most money, as the amount given by each family is called out and recorded during service. Often, families give more than they can afford in order to maintain their social standing. All these obligations tend to add up quickly, and many families struggle along life without hope of ever gaining financial independence.
Compounding the problem is that, like many other Pacific Island nations, the presence of poverty tends to be hushed up. Before arriving here, I had no idea of the harsh economic conditions. From my impression and conversations with locals and fellow expatriates, unemployment has been rising for quite some time, while the cost of living is steadily creeping up, resulting in more and more families becoming dependent on financial remittances from relatives abroad (total transfers having reached an estimated $57.9 million already in 2002). There has not been much effort from the government, at least from my limited perspective, to combat the problem. Hopefully in time, the proud island nation will realize that its cultural richness and breathtaking natural beauty cannot serve as a substitute for economic self sufficiency.
All of this makes Kiva and SPBD’s efforts all the more important. It has been so encouraging to see the spirited persistence these enterprising ladies as they seek to build a financially-liberated future for themselves and their children. I am truly glad to be part of it all.
First post from Samoa
Talofa! I can hardly believe that I am writing this from Samoa, the “Treasured Islands of the South Pacific”. I hope you will bear with me over the next 13 weeks as I share my experiences of working at the South Pacific Business Development (SPBD), Kiva’s partner MFI on the island.
Departing Los Angeles on a direct red-eye to Samoa, I arrived in the wee hours of the morning, weary and excited. The humid island air and a light rain were the first things to greet me as I stepped off the plane. I was later informed that my arrival coincided with the first signs of precipitation in several weeks. Since then, not a day goes by without at least the falling of a light shower. Fortunately, the onset of rain is considered an auspicious event, saving my journey from an ominous start.
You might be wondering if island life is all that it’s cracked up to be. Well, in a lot of ways, it truly is. The people are incredibly friendly and welcoming, the pace of life is nice and slow, and the beaches are just gorgeous. However, Samoa is far from a tropical paradise. Poverty on the island is real and apparent. According to the UN, Samoa is one of the 49 least developed countries in the world. Most of SPBD’s clients, before their first loan, lived on less than $2 USD per day, and 48% of Samoan families were assessed to be living below the poverty line. The pacific islands tend to be left out of the discussion when people talk about world poverty, but the islands’ struggles are very real.
The presence of religion on the island really made an immediate impression on me. I couldn’t help but notice the number of ornate churches, dwarfing all other nearby structures, populating almost every corner of every village throughout the island. Even at the airport, advertisements for local churches appear next to ones for mobile phones. Perhaps less traditional faiths are starting to make inroads as well, as I had to rub my eyes in disbelief when a large box marked with Scientology literature rolled past me on the conveyor belt during baggage claim.
Being of Chinese heritage myself, I was very surprised by the noticeable Chinese presence in Samoa. Throughout the streets of Apia (the capital and commercial center of Samoa), many restaurants have shops have alternate signs written in unmistakable Chinese characters. I was told that Chinese migrant workers arrived en masse before the First World War, during colonial rule (not sure if it was German or British then). Many stayed behind, started families, and have built some of the most successful local restaurants and trading businesses around. I tested out a couple of the local Chinese restaurants, and while it didn’t exactly taste like home (by which I mean Chinatown of course), it’s never a bad thing to have quick access to some fried rice!
Well, that’s it for introductions and first impressions. Until next time, Tofa Soifua!
