Posts filed under 'Guatemala'
Connecting through prayers
By Jeremy Lapedis, KF9, Guatemala
I’m Jewish, but, before every meal at Manuel’s hous,e we say a prayer thanking Jesus Christ. Manuel is the director of FAPE, the MFI where I work in Guatemala, and I have been staying with him since arriving. He is also a pastor at a B
aptist church. So I was surprised Thursday night when lifting my head, just after our prayer, I spotted a menorah on display. What is this doing here?
Manual caught my gaze. “Oh, a friend gave me that. Do you know what it used for?” he queried.
I attempted to impart what knowledge I had of the menorah: It was a miracle that the oil burned for eight days, but there are nine candles. Channukah was the festival of lights. He listened intently on what I had to say completely fascinated with my every word. His genuine interest in my religion, in hearing my thoughts, was not something I was accustomed to back home. How often do we hang onto every word of someone we barely know?
Shortly thereafter, he shared with me what my name meant to him. (more…)
2 comments 18 November 2009
A welcomed visitor in Guatemala, but just a visitor
By Jeremy Lapedis, KF9, Guatemala
I am the visitor. I am from Kiva. I am Jeremias. This has been my introduction for my first days in Guatemala.
Tueseday, we went to San Martin. It is a two hour drive from Guatemala City: thankfully it was Marco and not me who was driving so I could observe the scenery as we passed through beautiful rolling hills covered in forests. In the distance we could see small peaks, and each one was covered in trees.
Once we arrived, we were greeted by Bertha Carmelina Tohon, who just finished fundraising on Kiva. She gave
us a warm welcome and insisted that we have tea before we leave her comedor (eatery). She not shy to share her life story. I quickly learned that her kids attending college, one studying psychology and the other chemistry. I learned that she thought the Guatemalan school system did not teach the children anything practical, and that she has a typing school where kids learn using typewriters. I learned that she was hard working: “There is time to rest when you die,” she said.
But not all of our visits on this day would be this happy. (more…)
5 comments 14 November 2009
Adios Guatemala
Today is my last day as a Kiva Fellow working in Guatemala City. I will admit that in recent weeks my mind has been wandering to the luxuries of home: ethnic food, safe and timely public transportation, dishwashers, smog laws, etc… But as always, when leaving a new “home”, I know that I will miss the experiences and friendships that I have been lucky enough to experience while here.
As one of my fellow Kiva Fellows pointed out in an earlier post, we fellows tend to receive credit for the support that all of you lenders are really giving. I wish I could offer you one of the glasses of Coke or Fanta that I’ve been given, perhaps sit you down with a basket of fresh tortillas, bring out a photo album and begin to show you the true gratitude that I was shown by countless Kiva borrowers. Earlier this week I re-visited a client that I had already met a few times. As I was leaving she shouted after me “make sure to tell all your friends at Kiva thank you!” What she meant by “friends” was all of the lenders who had chosen to believe in her.
The field partner that I have spent the past 3 months with is called FAPE, a small MFI with over 25 years in the industry. In addition to their core business of providing small loans to women from mostly rural area, FAPE stays true to their deep social mission of improving the lives of Guatemalans – specifically those with little or no access to financial services.

FAPE Staff - When else will I be taller than most of my co-workers?!?
One of the pilot projects they have begun is a training course delivered to women at the Santa Teresa Women’s Prison. While the project is only one very small piece of the incredible work that FAPE does, I thought it would be interesting to share one of the stories that was shared with me. Here is a short video of a Kiva borrower who lives is a prison in Guatemala City:
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In The Field
Andrea Bouch just finished her first placement in Guatemala. She will be returning home to San Francisco (tomorrow!!!) where she will continue working as a Kiva Fellow.
1 comment 23 April 2009
You have internet but no running water?
Someone asked me how it was that I seemed to have (almost) constant access to the internet AND no indoor running water or heat. From an American perspective, it seems irrational and contradictory. But, Guatemala is filled with (seeming) contradictions and contrasts. I suspect that many of my “fellow” fellows have experienced the same in the countries where they are working.
The family I live with has satellite TV, a wide screen television (and a television in every bedroom) but they have no indoor running water or heating. They still wash their laundry by hand in a lavadero, outside. They cook over a wood stove. The water for showers is heated by a fire lit under a big black drum, which they fill with water early, every morning (before the water runs out). They make their own masa from the corn that they grow. And they all have cell phones, MP3 players and their favorite “novellas” (soap operas) on television.

- Thatched roof home with satellite television in Tulate
The office where I work has internet access (including wi-fi) and right outside my window, there is an elderly couple working their land like it’s probably been worked for centuries—all by hand, living in an adobe structure (with no running water or heat). One of my most surreal experiences during this fellowship was the day I was sitting in my little office at ASDIR, uploading Kiva borrower videos to YouTube; listening to a loan officer explain the terms of a loan in K’iche and, through my office window, watching the elderly couple plant their corn.

- the view from my ASDIR office in Nimasac
At dinner, in the weeks before Easter, my host family would sit around the dinner table and listen to the story of Christ’s resurrection told in K’iche, being broadcast over a radio on someone’s cell phone.
The inside of their stores and homes are very tidy—almost meticulous. Yet, they don’t hesitate to litter pretty much anywhere and everywhere else.

- trash…it’s everywhere!
Lori Gibson Banducci is a Kiva Fellow, working with ASDIR in Nimasac, Totonicapan, Guatemala where she blends in perfectly with the people who live here.

Lori and Kiva Borrowers
10 comments 16 April 2009
Life in Nimasac Guatemala
So, warning, this has NOTHING to do with microfinance.
But, here are two videos that give a definite flavor of life here in Nimasac, Guatemala where I have spent the last two months as a Kiva Fellow with ASDIR, Kiva’s field partner in Totonicapan, Guatemala.
K’iche is the predominant language spoken here. Many people have asked me to describe what it sounds like, but I’ve found that to be an impossible task, so here is a short video of animated dinner conversation in K’iche.
The second is a glimpse at what is involved in washing clothes here in Nimasac (it takes a LONG time!)
Lori Gibson Banducci is a Kiva Fellow working with ASDIR, Kiva’s field partner in Totonicapan, Guatemala where she blends in perfectly with the people who live there.

Lori with Kiva Borrowers
3 comments 13 April 2009
Loan Officers: The Unsung Heroes of Microcredit
Long hours, low pay, angry barking dogs, collection calls, long motorcycle rides and even longer walks…………what on earth keeps these loan officers “in the saddle” 8+ hours a day, 6 days a week? I interviewed two of ASDIR’s (Kiva’s partner bank in Totonicapan, Guatemala) loan officers to try and find out.
I have to say I have been most impressed by the dedication, care and compassion of the loan officers at this MFI. I would also bet that most of Kiva’s 90+ field partners have similar, committed loan officers—- clearly motivated by a lot more than money!
Interview is in Spanish, with subtitles and, it will soon become clear that I was not selected as a Kiva Fellow on the basis of my video editing (or taking) skills.
Click on this link for more information on ASDIR
1 comment 7 April 2009
“From One War to Another”
**Warning: Do not read if you are my parents**
Yesterday morning the secretary of FAPE (the MFI I am working with here in Guatemala City) woke up at 4:30am. As she left her house she kissed her 3-year-old son goodbye and told him that if she didn’t come home tonight he should know that she loves him. She then waited at the bus stop for over 2 hours for a city bus to bring her the 5 miles to the FAPE office.
Guatemala City (“Guate”) is in a public transportation crisis. It’s taken me awhile to understand the situation and it’s still rather complicated, but I’ll do my best to explain what I do know. It all starts with Guate’s large gang problem. One of the ways that the many gangs terrorize the city is by demanding payments from the bus companies. It’s a Hollywood style “meet me every Wednesday at the gas station to pay $100 — or else” kind of deal. If the companies don’t pay, the gangs kill bus drivers at random. They drive by on a motorcycle and fire into the drivers seat. They get on the bus as a passenger and shoot the driver point blank. They follow the bus until the driver stops for a snack and then take him out with one bullet. It’s horrific. In March alone, over 30 bus drivers have been murdered in Guatemala City.

A few Outer City Busses
Aside from being terrifying for the residents of the city, it also heavily affects their day-to-day life. The vast majority of bus drivers in the city have gone on strike (wouldn’t you??) which leaves eerily bus-less streets and hundreds of thousands of people stranded with no way to get to work or school. Guate has no other public transportation system and taxis are too expensive for the majority of the city’s inhabitants. So what do they do?
Well, like FAPE’s secretary, they get up 2 hours earlier and anticipate getting home 2 hours later. They hold their breath, praying that no harm will come to them on the ridiculously overly crowded busses. It may sound dramatic to tell your 3-year-old that if anything happens to you on your way to work that you will always love him, but the fear is real. Can you imagine being scared for your life every time you get on a public bus to go to work or to school?
The older generations, those who lived through Guatemala’s 30-year civil war tend to sigh and say this is just a new kind of war. They saw an era when the military and the police were the ones doing the killing, so seeing them simply stand aside while all of this goes on doesn’t appear to surprise anyone.

The place formerly known as my morning bus stop
What about me? Well, thankfully I can report that I am being extremely well taken care of. FAPE sends me to and from work in a private taxi and accompanies me anytime I venture beyond the large front gate of the office. I actually feel quite safe in my daily routine. I admit that I get small pangs of jealousy when I read about other Kiva Fellows seemingly independent bus trips and client visits, but for now I head “home” every day thankful for the luxury of feeling safe on my daily commute – a luxury that is simply not afforded to many people in this city.
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See actively financing loans at Kiva.org!!
4 comments 30 March 2009
hot showers–not so simple
Warning: this post has absolutely nothing to do with microfinace. Just gives you a glimpse into what is involved with taking a hot shower here in Nimasac, Guatemala.
When I was first accepted as a Kiva Fellow, I was asked if I had any “special” requirements. My response was that I wanted to be relatively safe and be able to take a hot shower.
Taking a hot shower is no simple matter in Guatemala. First of all, most homes do not have running water. (this includes the family that I am living with). So, in that situation, here is how you get to take a hot shower. First, they run a hose from the closest water source (in my case about a block away from the house) and fill this black (20-50?) gallon drum up with water. Then you light a fire underneath the drum and wait until the water gets hot. This big drum is always located above the shower, as it is gravity fed.

Now it gets dicey……because without any cold running water to “mix in” with the hot water, instead of a “hot” shower, you can get a SCALDING HOT shower……..so, it takes some time to figure out exactly how big of a fire to build and how long after the fire has been built is it safe to take a shower…….go too soon and you get scalding hot…….wait too long and it’s tepid at best.
When there is running water, as there is at many hotels, they use this kind of an electrical contraption which is located right there in the shower, right above the shower nozzle. The one pictured here is one of the “safer” versions…..many have electrical wires portruding and a lot of electrical tape wrapped (sometimes loosely) around them. And, when you’re tall like I am and the water splashes on the exposed electrical wires, that too gets a bit “dicey”.

And, as long as we’re talking about “bathrooms”, I thought I’d share a photo of the outhouse that my host family and I use. (actually, it is quite pleasant, as the view from the crack in the door is of the beautiful countryside surrounding Totonicapan)

3 comments 21 March 2009
Illegal Immigration-the view from Nimasac Guatemala
It’s almost impossible to find a family in this little town of Nimasac (in the western highlands of Guatemala) who has not had a son or husband go to the U.S. to find work.
Boys often leave when they are teenagers (16 or so) and take the perilous route to the U.S. through Mexico, by enlisting the services of a “coyote” (immigrant smuggler)—which is a very risky proposition. If they do make it to the U.S. alive, they arrive in large cities (Houston and New York seem to be the favorites here) where they connect with acquaintances or friends who are already there. Many leave wives and young children behind. Many stay for years before they return……..some never come back to Guatemala.
In the U.S. they find work in restaurants, construction, landscaping and, most of them, faithfully send money back to their families in Nimasac twice a month. It is hard to imagine the impact of these bi-monthly “remesas” (remittances) on the families and the local economy. In fact, annual remittances from the U.S. to Guatemala are the second biggest driver in Guatemala’s economy—second only to exports, totaling $ 4.3 billion in 2008 (Sources: MIF, IMF, US Census International DataBase, Latin America Monitor).
You can look around this village and clearly distinguish between the houses that were built with American money and those that were built with Guatemalan money. (see photos below)
Families with sons or husbands in the U.S. can often afford to feed and clothe their families, send their children to school, have cement block homes with running water and maybe even have electricity. It is estimated that 43 percent of Guatemalan households receiving remittances have been lifted out of extreme poverty. (Source: Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean (ECLAC)). So, these families are still poor (especially by American standards) but no longer among the poorest of the poor.
Remittances are projected to decline by 8% or more in 2009. In data just released by Banco de Guatemala, remittances for the first two months of 2009 are down 9.6 % compared to 2008. The impact of the decrease in remittances is profound and widespread and likely to get worse. Construction on many homes has simply “stopped” (putting those who were building the house out of work). Families can no longer afford to buy things, significantly impacting demand across the board, and especially the weaving, sewing and shoemaking cottage industries in Nimasac.
One Kiva borrower I spoke with said she used to have 35 individuals sewing/making parts for her shoes and now she is down to 15, with prospects looming of further declines. (She used her Kiva loan to pay her employees for work produced, but not yet sold due to lack of demand.) Another Kiva borrower had originally taken out a loan for leather and other shoe making materials, but the market for his product has all but disappeared. So he bought a loom instead—hoping the market for traditional fabrics “cortes” is more dependable. This is a young, industrious, positive young man with a wife and a toddler to provide for. But, demand is down, across the board, in almost every area of the economy here.
On one hand, I understand the associated “hidden” costs of illegal immigration in the U.S. I know that some illegal immigrants do not pay taxes and often times avail themselves of the education and medical care and, with the economic downturn, may be taking jobs from Americans who need the work. I also realize that, since some illegal immigrants are paid under the table and do not pay into Medicare or social security or income tax, we all “pay the price” for their use of our services.
On the other hand, I can also understand the desire of these young men to provide for their families, to improve their lives by immigrating to the U.S. (legally or illegally) where they can find jobs and opportunity. It reminds me of the situation that Jean Valjean finds himself in Les Miserables, when he steals a loaf of bread to feed his daughter.
As with most things, there are definitely several dimensions to this illegal immigration issue. And it is apparent from the Guatemalan side, that many families who had been able to escape extreme poverty are about to be thrust right back into it as remittances from the U.S. continue to decline. And, in the absence of “demand” for products and services, the ability for micro credit to make a meaningful difference in the lives of these people may be compromised.

built with $$$

built with quetzales
8 comments 13 March 2009
The Other 2%
Those of us who know and love the Kiva platform probably find ourselves giving the “what is Kiva” elevator pitch fairly often. “Kiva is an online platform…” or “Kiva is a microlending social community…” or whatever your go-to line may be. And we’ve most likely all seen eyes glaze over and watched our audience find a sudden fascination with their feet. But every once in a while you can tell that you’ve hooked them: “So I would get my money back?” “I can really lend $25?” And my favorite moment of those conversations: “What is the default rate?”
About 2%.
That’s when I always feel like I’ve made my case. A 2% default rate is phenomenal, but what about those clients who don’t/can’t/won’t pay back their loans?
Yesterday I visited 4 clients who all are at least 1 year behind on their loan payments. Only 1 client is a Kiva borrower, but the stories are all very similar. Most of the women had something go wrong; a health issue, a death in the family, a sudden unexpected cost, etc.
But all of them also had over committed themselves to multiple loans from multiple banks. So when things start to head south financially it’s 3 times as hard for them because they have 3 banks knocking on their door. In the absence of a formal credit system it’s fairly easy to think that you’re being smart by taking out multiple loans. In some cases this can work just fine, but when it doesn’t work out it gets ugly really fast. Many banks charge late fees and most loans will continue to accrue interest charges until paid off. In some cases the bank will post a list of clients who missed a payment in their front window. So what do you do when your name is on the dunce list and your debt gets larger everyday? No, seriously, what do you do?
In the cases of the women I met with yesterday: 1 proposed a long term payment plan with smaller monthly payments, another cried and cried and asked for a year of leniency, another pretended she didn’t know what we were talking about, and the last client went to her husband and asked for his help in repaying the debt.
With Kiva brought into the mix it can complicate things even further. Kiva lenders expect to get their money back. In fact sometimes I wonder how many lenders even understand that the potential of not getting their money back exists. The microfinance institutions want to protect their reputation and with the level of transparency that Kiva provides to lenders, the default and late payment rates are right there for the world to see. Thus, many MFIs choose to essentially insure their loans for late payments and they have shiny ZEROS next to those stats. But that doesn’t mean that they don’t have late and defaulted loans.
I bring this up simply because it’s a reality of microfinance that I hadn’t fully understood until I came to Guatemala and began working with FAPE. As lenders, we agree to take on the risk, but I still wonder how the lender community feels when they don’t receive their money. Is a journal that explains the situation sufficient? Is there something else that can be done?
**This entry doesn’t have a “photo moment” but in the interest of keeping things visually appealing, here’s a picture I took on a client visit last week.

Technology in villages that still lack running water
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Andrea Bouch is a Kiva Fellow working with FAPE in Guatemala City. To help support
Guatemalan entrepreneurs please Join the Viva Guatemala Lending Team!
13 comments 12 March 2009

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