Kiva Stories from the Field

There are parallel and sometimes conflicting legal systems in Samoa: the state system and the local matai (chief) system.  The state system being a relatively recent incarnation and the matai system being a traditional hierarchical structure used for many centuries.  Both have laws (formal and informal), courts, judges and punishments.

Outside the capital city of Apia, the matai system reigns supreme.  For many centuries it has maintained order in the rural villages.  Samoans attribute their long history without internal conflict and widespread crime to the matai system and the common culture of the people.  They note this difference in other Pacific nations which have experienced civil unrest between ethnic groups.  I would say that a lack of civil unrest is more a product of homogeneity.  The low crime rate, however, is directly related to the matai system.

There is palpable respect for and obedience to the village elders and matais.  This is a result of Fa’a Samoa (“Samoan way”), a traditional system of expected behaviors and responsibilities, which is interdependent with the matai system.  Hulking adult Samoan males turn into cowering and apologetic children in the face of an angry mother.  Of course, crime does exist in the villages.  Mostly, petty theft and domestic violence and abuse. Both difficult to thwart with any kind of legal system.

The matai system trumps the state system in the villages.  A vanload of police entering a village to enforce a law contradictory to the local matai system are potentially welcomed by a hail of rocks and turned away.  There is no recourse for the state.  No state law is effective without consent from the village matais.

In the capital city, though, the matai system is somewhat degraded.  And resistance to the police remains.  Take a recent fight between rival high schools.  It escalated to the point where a bystander was hit by a Molotov cocktail and the lone city cinema was destroyed.  The students continued to fight with complete indifference to the police. (In response, the state has banned ALL sports matches for ALL schools indefinitely.  An overreaction and counterproductive in my opinion).  To be clear, this incident is an aberration, but the mentality that drove it persists.

So it’s possible that a nation with the fewest formal laws and strongest informal traditions produces the greatest order.  At least insofar as the villages are concerned.  But in the most ‘developed’ portion of the country where traditions have diminished, crime is greater and a marginalized police force is expected to stop it.

The Deputy Prime Minister frequently states: Samoa is not prepared to sacrifice its culture at the altar of globalization.

Thus, it is disconcerting that in the capital city, where development has occurred the most while at the cost of some cultural traditions, civil order is the most difficult to maintain.

It seems to be a requisite duty of a Fellow to provide the “You know you’re in…when” so here’s my take:

10. Rugby is life. American Football is called ‘American Rugby’. Though a Samoan-American is 40 times more likely to make the NFL than a non-Samoan American (thanks, ESPN), the more than 30 ethnic Samoan football players in the NFL, like Troy Polamalu or Junior Seau, do not have celebrity status. That fame is reserved for the Rugby players of Manu Samoa (National Team) and Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson born of a Samoan mother.

9. “Mmm” means Yes. If you ask, was that a “yes”? You’ll receive another “Mmm”.

8. At times, no communication can be better than bad communication. I mistakenly relayed that I was married with kids when I first arrived through a conversation in broken Enlgish. Neither is true.

7. If you ride the buses, be prepared to have someone on your lap and make stops every 200ft due to no designated bus stops and Samoans’ aversion to walking.

6. As a foreigner, the only persistent dangers are the wild dogs and sunburns. Both potentially nasty. As a local remarked to me during my first few days here: “you are not made for this sun.”

5. If you’re raised in a village, you really have more like 20 mothers there to chastise you and provide swift corporal punishment in the form of a stiff rear-end smack at any time.

4. Only in Samoa (or perhaps Scotland) are four NFL linemen-sized men singing Madonna’s “Borderline”, in lavalavas (skirts), still an intimidating sight.

3. Walking along the side of the road is like playing a game of chicken with the passing vehicles. I am convinced they want to get as close to you as possible. When a driver provides ample room to walk (and live), I know it’s an expat driving by.

2. Your mobile phone calls are very short. No introductions, no good-byes. The result of per-second charging and exorbitant rates.

1. Your deceased relatives never really leave you. Many are buried on your porch or front lawn.

In the right place at the right time, I had the great fortune to meet the Deputy Prime Minister of Samoa as a representative for Kiva. An SPBD entrepreneur was selected through Kiva by Advanta, an American small business banking company, to travel to the United States and speak at a few engagements about her Elei printing business. A big deal here in Samoa evidenced by a send off from the DPM. It even made the national newspaper: http://www.samoaobserver.ws/local/LNPages/0408/1608ln007.htm

One would think the content of a conversation with the women of a village centre and one with the Deputy Prime Minister would be noticeably different. They are not.

When I arrive at a village centre, it begins with the standard introductions. Name, country of origin, organization. My information does not generally pique significant interest. Then it becomes their turn for a question: are you single? Do you have a Samoan girlfriend? At which point, I am told through some chuckles that all the women are single (despite the droves of children all around us).

No different in the DPM office. Except the children.

Immediately, they begin to call me “Benicio”, a lead actor in a widely-watched Filipino soap opera. Despite having no resemblance to him, each village, without fail, calls me by his name. Slightly troubling considering he is the reviled antagonist. Saying that this soap opera is all the rage is a great understatement. The country comes to a halt during the 3-hour, 3 times a week showing. With pirated copies circulating, there is no longer the dreaded break in between episodes.

The DPM, similarly, requested that SPBD’s General Manager, who is Filipino, purchase new Filipino DVDs during his next trip home. Though he unconvincingly claimed not to be a fan.

The DPM did raise some weightier subjects: the US Presidential Election and his own political controversy.

He was very well-versed on the Democratic Primary, and he even knew about each candidate’s most recent gaffe. I can not say who he endorses (he refused), but no one here seems to know that there is a Republican nominee.

As to the great Samoan political controversy rocking this tiny nation: the Prime Minister is imposing a switch from left-hand drive to right-hand drive vehicles. Coupled with a switch of the driving side on the roads. It has been met with near unanimous opposition: 2 protest marches and “Vote NO on RHD” t-shirts, signs and bumper stickers everywhere. The motivations for the change are not exactly clear. Here’s a shot in the dark: it has something to do with money. I am just glad that I’ll be long gone when that chaotic day comes in 2009.

Courtship, Filipino soap operas and RHD. There’s no escape from it here.

Many Westerners come to Samoa and quickly make one of two judgments: all Samoans are poor OR no Samoans are poor.

That dichotomy can be perplexing, so I decided to engage a Centre Manager (loan officer) in a conversation about it. One who stood firmly with the belief that all Samoans are poor. None of this should be treated as a final judgment. Far too early for that.

To paraphrase:

Everyone in Samoa is poor, he stated.

If I ask the people if they’re poor, what would they say? They would say that they’re not poor.

So why do you say that they are? What do you mean by that? No one sleeps on the streets. Everyone has a home. The community spirit in Samoa would not allow anyone to be sleeping on the streets. No one is starving. Food is abundant. Using these gauges, a passing observer might instinctively decide that there is no poverty at all.

Many international relief organizations define poverty as living on less than $1 a day. By that standard, Samoa is considered one of the most impoverished nations in the developing world. But if you travel to parts of India, Africa, China, you will see emaciated homeless, tangible poverty. But in Samoa, though many live on no money, they grow their own food, make their own clothes. Without even property taxes, they can live self-reliantly. Plus, smiles are ubiquitous. Everyone seems content with their standard of living notwithstanding the tribulations of any society (jealousy, greed, infidelity, etc)

I had to dig deeper into how exactly this CM defined poverty, so I asked from a different angle. How will you know when Samoa is developed? What are the indicators? Many Samoans do not have electricity or potable running water. When they have those things, we will be developed.

But is that going to make them happier? Maybe, maybe not. I surmise that the overall happiness is greater here than in most, if not all, developed countries. Is electricity and running water going to make Samoa a happier, better country? Maybe, maybe not.

(I will resist entering in the dispute over poverty and development and happiness. The enduring “what’s really best for this country?” question.)

So then no one is really poor?

When I walk into a village for the first time that is not a part of SPBD, the women are still smiling. It’s our nature. But once they enter the program, I can see a different smile on the women’s faces. Starting a business, earning money, making payments gives them dignity. Everyone knows about money. Now they feel they’re a part of that system. I come from a poor background. Like most Samoans, I had a sort of poverty of the mind. Belonging to SPBD, starting a business, gives them a purpose, a drive, a goal. Pride. As an outsider, you cannot see this difference in their smiles. I don’t work here for the money. I can make more money at the National Bank. I work here for them. For a better Samoa.

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A cynic might say that this is a self-fulfilling prophecy. I want to feel good about what I do; therefore I will only see the good in what I do. But this CM, who I can attest to his blunt honesty, was only speaking with absolute sincerity.

SPBD’s stated mission is “to improve the quality of life of poor families of Samoa by providing training, unsecured credit, ongoing guidance and motivation to help the clients start, grow and sustain micro-businesses.” In reality, I would say that is the ancillary benefit. For this one CM, his mission is to fill a void of knowledge and purpose. Provide a sense of duty and accomplishment. Running water and electricity are the tangible outcomes of poverty alleviation. But in a country mostly content, the mission is increased dignity. Evidenced by a different smile that most outsiders will never be able discern.

I heard the claims before I arrived: “Samoans are exceptionally friendly.” It sounded simple enough; they must live with a tattooed smile and provide a helping hand to those in need. But, as I discovered, it is much more. Samoans have what I’ll call an aggressive friendliness. As I walk around town, the never-timid local Samoan will unfailingly pepper me with questions within the first couple minutes. All questions that I undoubtedly would be unwilling to answer a stranger in the US. And was quite reluctant to answer my first couple days here.

Greetings are always initiated by, “where are you going?” (“Over there”)

Then, “what are you doing here?” (“Working”)

Followed by, “where do you live?” (“Back there”)

And at some point, “what religion are you?” (“Is there a correct answer to this question?”)

Always concluded by the unanticipated, “do you want to come to my village?” (“Don’t you think we are rushing into things a bit fast?”)

In the States, a reflexive retort of “none of your business” (or often a less polite version) would be the common response.

These people could not possibly be that interested in my answers. They must be building information on me. Determining where I live and work. Luring me back with a false sense of security to their homes. I couldn’t suppress my skepticism and leeriness.

But after a few days, I realized my suspicions of their generosity were unfounded. Everyone asked a nearly identical list of questions.

The motives for their questions were much more innocuous.

“Where are you going?” is simply a greeting like “how’s it going?” Often, they don’t even care about your answer. If so, they are simply curious about where this palinga (white person – strangely translated as “from the sky”) was headed.

Where someone lives indicates with what village they are associated. In a country without street names and addresses, a significant way of identification.

The importance of religion needs no further explanation in this country that has more churches than banks, bookstores and restaurants combined.

On the topic of inviting me home, their hospitality is truly that powerful that they wanted to take me in. (Ex. Though not typical behavior, as I believe the man to be under the influence of an intoxicating substance, a local hugged me and gushed with joy of my visit to his country.)

In other hospitable nations, entering someone’s house affords you guest status. In Samoa, entering the country affords you guest status.

I’ve decided to provide a pictorial representation of the loan steps for SPBD. I’ll use thumbnails because I’d like to avoid crashing the Ugandan or Mozambican or any other countries’ internet cafes. This will alow you to see some of the guys (and gals) behind the guys (and gals). I’m confident that other MFIs have similar processes. It was incredible to witness it first-hand. Hopefully this will provide a glimpse.

After a village expresses interest in starting a center (microfinance group), a representative of SPBD travels to the villages and provides them with a couple finely crafted program videos and a PowerPoint presentation to a very captive audience. Many of the villagers discover SPBD through local TV advertisements.

A Centre Manager (CM – loan officer) returns for four consecutive weeks to provide training on SPBD’s core concepts: business, weekly meetings, payments, savings and group guarantee. Group guarantee being the bedrock of this MFI. Each woman is dependent on the others to faithfully follow the terms of their agreement and must shoulder the burden if others are unable. This is where the Samoan culture of community and pride are especially indispensable.

On disbursement day, the women (as many as 100) begin to arrive at 8:00am at the SPBD office in Savaii. Some stay as long as 8 hours to receive their first loan. I’d like to say the atmosphere is teeming with excitement. I think, really, after 4 weeks of training, they just want their money. Many have had their skill (growing taro, fishing, making dresses, mats, etc) for many years. Time spent previously lounging in the fales (open air houses) is now spent more productively.

Each woman undergoes a final interview to guarantee her fitness in repaying the loan, understanding of the agreement and knowledge of her business. A wide grin and “fa’fetai” (thank you) are all that is needed to show their appreciation.

Now begins the standard 52-week loan term. Each week, a CM travels to each center to receive payments. Group guarantee is effectively enforced and followed.
Visits to the actual businesses is not often an option for a CM considering their very busy days. (But they are able to patronize them as customers during the nights and weekends.) During these center meetings while the detailed records are taken, I’ve had the opportunity to leave and visit the local food stalls, plantations and others. A retail location for many of the women is the Salelologa market where surprisingly no heckling and bargaining rarely takes place.

So the business and loan cycle continue for the next 51 weeks. Profits used to pay back the loan, educate their children, improve their houses, expand their businesses and save for the future. Prior to microfinance, opportunities never before realized.

Greetings, friends and strangers.

I’ll be spending the next 3 months in Samoa providing you with my observations of the country, people and most importantly, South Pacific Business Development (SPBD), the MFI at which I’ll be working and to whom you may have lent.

I will not offer my impressions of Samoa until several weeks have passed and I can start to make some sense of everything. Otherwise, it would only be a collection of incoherent ramblings about a country of which I do not even speak its native language.

Many have asked where Samoa is located. Or more precisely, where in Africa it is. For the map-deprived Miss America watchers, Samoa is located midway between Hawaii and New Zealand. For all the other answers to general questions, go here: www.visitsamoa.ws

SPBD was started in 1999 by Greg Casagrande, an American and former Ford Motor Company executive. It’s one of Kiva’s original Field Partners. It is a Grameen Bank style micro finance organization serving those living in poverty in the Pacific Islands. It uses the group lending method and focuses on empowering women (Very effectively, I can already confidently add). Its first target market is the island nation of Samoa. The 48% of the population that the UNDP has declared as being food deficient.

For a 2006 NBC piece on SPBD, go to:
http://msnbc.msn.com/id/11328051/

One thing is for certain. Samoa is a prime setting for microfinance: minimal government interference or regulation, politically stable, low crime, liberated women, collective environment, wealth of microbusiness opportunities and, most notably, the need for it.

For anyone mulling over the impact of Kiva on the MFIs, look no further than SPBD. Thanks to the working capital that Kiva provides, SPBD was able to expand from the main island of Upolu to Savaii in the last few months. (Which, by corollary, offered me the opportunity to visit more of Samoa). And more islands are on the horizon, literally.

I will try to keep these posts as word-less and picture-full as possible. Seeing the benefits of your work is always much more satisfying than reading about it. Alas, my fellowship.